Edinburgh’s Christmas market in the Princes Street Gardens runs from late November to early January and occupies one of the most dramatic settings of any Christmas market in Europe. The east and west gardens sit directly below the castle rock, with Edinburgh Castle illuminated above the market stalls throughout the season. On a clear December evening, this is one of the better versions of Christmas available anywhere in Britain.
The Market Layout
The main market occupies the East Princes Street Gardens with wooden chalet stalls running along the foot of the Mound. The German-style format covers food and drink, gifts, crafts and seasonal decorations. The Scott Monument at the east end of the market provides the most photographed backdrop. The ice rink at the west end of the gardens takes the recreational element – booking ahead for the rink is necessary in December.
Food and Drink
The market food offer covers mulled wine, Gluhwein, bratwurst, Scottish pastries and an increasing range of non-European street food that reflects the city’s broader food culture. The German Gluhwein stalls at the base of the Mound are the reliable option. The Scottish produce stalls – Scotch pies, cranachan, shortbread from proper Edinburgh bakeries rather than tourist shops – are worth seeking out among the standard market fare.
When to Visit
Weekday afternoons from late November are the least crowded option. The Saturday evenings in December from 5pm to 8pm are the busiest – manageable but not relaxed. The market takes on its best atmosphere in the first couple of weeks of December before the pre-Christmas pressure kicks in. A Tuesday or Wednesday evening in early December, with the castle lit above and the stalls busy but not overwhelming, is the correct Edinburgh Christmas market experience.
The Wider Christmas Programme
The Edinburgh Christmas events programme extends beyond the market to include the Edinburgh Wheel in St Andrew Square, the Star Flyer ride on the Mound, and various venue events across the city. George Street runs its own Christmas events and the city centre shopping – Jenners, Harvey Nichols, the independent shops on Multrees Walk – benefits from the seasonal atmosphere the market generates around it.
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